INGREDIENT IN FOCUS: RETINOL

Retinol is probably the most proven anti-aging ingredient available. If you like to read about skincare, I’m sure you must have already known a lot about Retinol. It is quite a complex ingredient and there has been a lot written about it.

Dr. Mervyn Patterson, cosmetic doctor at Woodford Medical says you start to lose collagen in your face by mid-20s and lose something between 1-1.7% a year from then onwards. SCARY!!

Retinol encourages the lowest layer of skin (called basal cells) to divide and as a result, we get more new epidermal cells that migrate towards the top and become a top layer.

“There is a catch –If you know, Retinol makes the skin oversensitive to the sun”.

DO YOU KNOW HOW IT HAPPENS?

When we apply Retinol topically, the one problem with retinol overuse is that new cells at the top don’t function well because it has been rapidly produced and lacks the necessary adhesion and lipid production. The top layer skin protects from the external environment, UV rays, and pollution, the more retinol you put, it weakens the top skin barrier that is why a lot of people feel that their skin is sensitive and experience irritation. It is extremely important to use sunscreen when you use retinol.

Retinol products market has become like a sweet shop with different forms of Vitamin A available in the market claiming all sorts of things. The ideal supply of vitamin A is a small amount of the active form – retinoic acid.

Retinol itself not active and it has to converted to retinoic acid to do something.

“Conversion is 2 steps process – Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid”.

"SOME COMMON MYTHS AROUNDS RETINOL "

Myth 1: Stop applying Retinol if irritation occurs

It is part of the process, your skin cells adjust to retinoic acid and actually show results after 2-3 weeks so if your skin gets a little irritated at first – just hang in there.

Myth 2: Retinol thins skin

It only thins the top layer of skin and it’s a good thing as this will prevent skin-pore clogging.

Myth 3: Should use every day

Daily usage is the goal but starts with using it a few times a week as every age requires different concentration and routine

Myth 4: See results in a month

It doesn’t work overnight; you will start to see some changes by 4 weeks but studies use 12 weeks as a cut-off to seeing any significant changes.

Myth 5: Retinol exfoliates the skin

It is not like AHA (Alpha Hydroxyl Acid). Peeling is actually a process (or side effect) of retinol. It works at more deep and profound level and enhance collagen production.

See ya!